International Women's Day

Yesterday, on our last day in Dammam, we enjoyed a much needed break in our schedule with a chance to sleep in, take a leisurely ride over the King Fahd Causeway to the border with Bahrain, and enjoy a walk on the beach before our evening flight to Jeddah, the final stop on our trip. Yesterday also happened to be International Women’s Day. So, given our light schedule, I chose to focus on women’s issues in Saudi Arabia for my blog entry. The following views are my own and do not necessarily represent those of Georgetown University, the MSFS program, or other students on this trip.

For women headed to Saudi Arabia, a cultural shift that goes beyond simply traveling to a foreign country takes place on board the airplane about an hour before landing. As the plane approaches Saudi airspace, an announcement is made over the intercom to alert all the ladies who aren’t already wearing an abaya to retrieve them from their carry-on luggage and line up at the lavatories to put them on. The young woman who had been sitting next to me for the previous 11 hours walked away wearing designer jeans and a T-shirt, but came back wrapped in black from head to toe, her purple Converse shoes peeking out from under the hem of her abaya. For the duration of their stay in Saudi Arabia, women are obligated to wear the abaya in all public spaces where men are present.

Hooray for mandatory "modesty!"

Whether based on religious precepts (Islamic, Christian, or otherwise) or simply rooted in patriarchal tradition, ultra-conservative notions of gender roles essentially boil down to a single defining element: control. In the United States, this occurs largely at the family level: the Pentecostal girl down the street who wears ankle-length skirts to school every day and is forbidden to cut her hair, the housewife whose husband discourages or even forbids her from seeking employment outside the home, the teenager who isn’t allowed to date. But for this kind of control to be imposed on fully one-half the population as a matter of official national policy is frankly shocking from a modern Western perspective.

Let’s not overlook our own shortcomings. Less than a century ago, women in American shared many of the same restrictions that hold back Saudi women today. Although they weren’t forcibly ensconced in black fabric, they lacked the ability to fully participate in society. Like modern day Saudi Arabia, available career options were limited to a small subset of acceptable choices, primarily in fields like education and nursing. (Speaking of education, it’s worth pointing out that Georgetown did not become fully coeducational until 1968.) Today, women in America continue to fight for equal pay, equal representation in boardrooms and Congress, even control over their own bodies. Despite the decades of effort put forth by our mothers and grandmothers, pressures both subtle and overt are still exerted on women to conform to certain traditional stereotypes.

Sorry, all other career options are currently on backorder

In discussing the issue of women in Saudia Arabia with other classmates on the trip, some of us made varying allowances for cultural relativism. However, we were all in agreement that change must come from within Saudi society. Based on some encouraging observations we’ve seen during the course of our time here, that change may finally be on the horizon. Currently, 58% percent of college students in Saudi Arabia are female and 36% of all females enroll in college (compared to less than 25% of males.) I sincerely hope these figures foretell an inevitable tipping point where an abundance of educated Saudi women will simply be unwilling to continue in the same manner.

Ultimately, gender equality comes down to freedom of choice. I have no problem with a woman choosing to wear the abaya, choosing not to drive, choosing not to work in particular fields (or at all.) But to have all those choices fundamentally denied her is a violation of her very human rights that transcends any argument of religious freedom or cultural relativism. While societal pressures, religious dogma, the influence of family, and the legacy of one’s upbringing continue to factor heavily into lifestyle choices in the West, any legal impediments to making these choices must be removed before a society can truly be considered modern. Unfortunately for the image of a modern, wealthy country that Saudi Arabia has attempted to project during this trip, no degree of opulence can ever outweigh the basic freedom to choose how to live one’s life.

Day 5

After the prior evening's flight and hotel check-in, we awoke in Dammam to a clear blue sky and a pleasant Gulf breeze. Many pastries, melons, kiwis, strawberries, and Arabic coffee prepared us for the day ahead. Our first visit was to King Fahd University of Petroleum and Minerals, which is celebrating its 50th Anniversary this year. All of Georgetown University and particularly MSFS students offer our congratulations! Located about a 35 minute drive from our adjacent-to-the-Gulf hotel, King Fahd is positioned next to an American consulate. The architectural style is a blend of contemporary Islamic and brutalism (a style common to many American universities, to include Georgetown's own Launiger Library). The orientation of the buildings on the hill-based campus calls to mind the Greek Acropolis, which according to our guides was an intention of the American firm that designed it.

Our first meeting was in a spacious, wood-paneled boardroom with the university's rector, Dr. Khaled S. Al-Sultan. As always, outstanding hospitality was in order. Fresh squeezed orange juice, coffee, tea, and lots of treats such as pistachio baklava were presented for our enjoyment. Dr. Khaled began with an insightful explanation of the university's approach to education. In eloquent English, he told us that the administrators "consider KFU to be an experience, not just a curriculum to get through" and they "want [students] to be good global citizens and family members". We learned that faculty members come from 55 different countries. And with the exception of Islamic Studies and Arabic language instruction, all courses are taught in English.

Mirroring a theme from our previous site visits, the rector informed us that Saudi Arabia is striving to develop a knowledge economy. To that end, this year 25 to 28 percent of the government budget will go to education (of note, 90 percent of the Kingdom's budget is derived from oil revenues, but he explained that they are "trying to diversify"). Also, the Kingdom quadrupled the number of universities over the last five years.

We were made aware of recent university successes, such as last year's reception of 28 US patents (with 260 more awaiting registration). And this year, a new science park was introduced on campus. Dr. Khaled stated, "to get to a knowledge economy, you have to develop the ecosystem for it, you have to train kids to like math and science". Additionally, KFU and MIT entered into a recent agreement to establish a Center for Clean Water and Energy, in order to conduct collaborative research.

During the question and answer period we learned that 60 percent of Saudi Arabian energy use is consumed by air conditioning (foreshadowing our next day's visit to an A.C. manufacturer). However, the Kingdom is looking to improve that metric through the introduction of new insulation regulations. Another point of interest is that Saudi Arabia is the largest world producer of desalinated water. Rector Dr. Khaled stated that "the challenge is to make [desalination] more cost effective". Making it clear that the country wants to maintain it's leadership in this industry, he said, "I will not be surprised to see Saudi Arabia export water". Furthermore, benchmarking on international standards is now a major goal.

Final comments by Dr. Khaled discussed broader Saudi policies. He noted that the Kingdom is looking both East and West and that "rationality always plays a strong part in Saudi Arabian foreign policy, as well as the Realist school of [International Relations]."

The delegation then had the opportunity to meet with officials at the KFU Research Institute (RI). According to the officials, it has six major centers focused on Corrosion (particularly in regards to concrete, due to the harsh environment), Renewable Energy, Petroleum Refining & Petrochemicals, Nanotechnology, and Islamic Banking & Finance. Each center cost 30 to 40 million USD for five years. Also, each year they receive approximately 20 million USD from places outside the government. The officials stated that the RI "is one venue that is helping push toward the knowledge economy" and they are "shifting to 'design-based' courses". We also learned here that only one out of 20 applicants is admitted to KFU.

For many delegates, the next visit was the most enthralling. Undergraduate student Mohammed Abu Sharifah explained a solar-powered car that, with the exception of the German-made solar panels, the car was entirely built by undergraduate students out of Kevlar, chrome alloy steel, and lightweight aluminum. With a mass of 214 kilograms and 392 solar cells covering the body, the car has a range of 500 km and a top speed of 70 km/hr. It took two years to design and build. Called the Seraaj Solar Car Team, they recently placed 27th in the Veolia World Solar Challenge in Australia, beating even MIT! KFU was the only Arab team in attendance. They plan to compete again and in the meantime are focused on reducing the weight of the car to enhance performance.

The delegation then travelled to the Asharqia Chamber of Commerce, responsible for business in the Eastern Province, which is home for 20 percent of the population and the majority of the petroleum reserves. We were briefed by Mr. Mohammed T. Radwan, a 1999 Georgetown graduate. The Chamber's mission is "to provide unique and high quality services that meet the aspirations of the private sector, thus ensuring continuous development through the optimal investment in available resources, renewable technologies, and effective participation in the economic and social development of the region". Chamber membership is mandatory for businesses in the Eastern Province, of which 80 percent are small and medium enterprises (SME's). Membership more than doubled since 2001, which is an indicator of growth and development. The Chamber operates many services, to include an Investment Development Center, a Training Center, VIP Center, SME Development Center, Businesswoman Center, Information Center, and Employment Center. Additionally, several ISO Certifications from TUV Nord were displayed as well as noted in the extensive slide presentation we received. More information on the Chamber can be found at chamber.org.sa.

Later that evening, we visited the SITECH museum and IMAX theater. We watched a film called "Arabia", which outlined a thorough history of Saudi Arabia as well as a keen discussion of contemporary challenges. Overall, the movie was a strong look into the culture and we definitely recommend it to anyone who wants to gain a more accurate understanding of Saudi Arabia. After that, the delegates spent a fun and relaxing few minutes exploring the modern museum, which includes exciting features such as a large-volume fish tank and an earthquake simulator. Afterward, we returned to the hotel hungry for a dinner of hummus, chicken, lamb, and plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables, followed by a good night's rest!

Day 4

Day Four: Our final day in Riyadh before leaving for Dammam proved to be a productive day filled with interesting and thought-provoking meetings. A late Sunday night and early Monday morning wake-up left many of us bleary-eyed and a bit groggy, but it was nothing that the coffee and delicious breakfast of the Ritz Carlton Riyadh couldn’t fix. One thing is for sure -- none of us can complain about lack of tasty food here in Saudi Arabia!

The fourteen of us piled into our now familiar minibus and traveled to the brand new King Abdulaziz Public Library, which has been open for a mere two months. Mr. Hussain Ahmad Al-Yami, Head of the Foreign Collections Department, toured us through a display of various still photographs of the King with heads of state, children, and other Saudi royalty. Through our tour of the library space, we learned that the library is home to millions of Arabic language books and thousands of volumes in other languages like English, French, Italian, and German. The new library was quite impressive with many new computers and work stations. We learned that there are not a lot of public libraries in Saudi (most of them are contained within universities) and thus this library is proud that they “strive to make books available to everyone.” They are working towards digitizing their collection too. Mr. Al-Yami entertained a number of questions from our group on everything from banned books to the availability of bookstores in Saudi to the accessibility of the library to Saudis outside of Riyadh. The gender segregation that permeates Saudi society is also present in the public library system; there is a separate library for women.

At our next meeting at SABIC (Saudi Basic Industries Corporation), we were greeted with the Saudi hospitality that we have come to appreciate so much. A delicious spread of sandwiches, juices, cookies, and vegetables reinvigorated us for the meeting. SABIC is the largest and most profitable non-oil company in the Middle East. It is also one of the world’s five largest petrochemicals manufacturers and the number one steel manufacturer in the Middle East. The Saudi government owns 70% of the company’s shares and private investors including other members of the Gulf Cooperation Council holdthe other 30%. Mr. Samir A. Al-Abdrabbuh, VP of Corporate Communications, and his team showed a presentation on the new SABIC brand that focuses on making chemicals that matter to the world through ‘trust, ambition, and growth.’ We were surprised to hear how young the company is – only 35 years old – and how it boasts over 33,000 employees. To continually invest in their workforce, SABIC utilizes a training and education academy on the Riyadh campus. Mr. Al-Abdrabbuh shared that the secret to retaining top talent in the company (he has been with SABIC for 27 years) is to“keep people challenged” in their daily work.

SABIC emphasized their role as a global company with facilities around the world and millions of joint ventures. We also discussed issues of sustainability, corporate social responsibility, labor, and low cost materials. Because our time at SABIC shortened due to scheduling constraints, we left with a sense of wanting to know more and dig continue to dig beyond the sleek public relations language. Overall, we greatly appreciated the opportunity to interact with such a significant Saudi company.

At our final stop of the day, our group found a refreshing sight at the Saudi Arabian General Investment Authority (SAGIA) – women workers! We learned that half of the executive team of SAGIA is female and 25% of the overall workforce there is female. SAGIA’s Assistant Deputy for Research, Analysis, & Councils, Mr. Omar Hamad A. Ali Mahdhi, gave us an overview of SAGIA and its strategies. The agency’s goal is to “attract sufficient investment to achieve rapid and sustainable economic growth in Saudi Arabia, capitalizing on the Kingdom’s competitive strengths as the global capital of energy and a major hub between East and West.” Having worked for a similar agency in the US, I found this visit particularly fascinating. SAGIA focuses on three major initiatives to meet their economic growth objectives: a National Competitiveness Center, Economic Cities (zones witheased regulations and government services), and promotion of energy, transport, and knowledge-based sectors.

SAGIA is proud of its progress on the World Bank Doing Business rankings (moved from #93 of 145 in 2004 to #11 of 181 in 201) and also UNCTAD’s Global FDI ranking (from #27 in 2006 to #8 in 2010). We were all intrigued by the tax incentives that SAGIA uses to attract FDI and ensure that companies have the skilled workforce needed to be successful. SAGIA is also focused on promoting entrepreneurship and recognized that entrepreneurs are an “awkward breed” in the country due to a stigma associated with the risk of going into a potentially unstable and risky career. I was also excited to hear them mention the efforts of the office that I currently intern with at the State Department –the Global Entrepreneurship Program. It’s been very enlightening to realize the various synergies that SAGIA’s work has with both my past and present work experiences.

Another interesting discussion percolated regarding Saudi’s relationship with China (another theme running throughout this trip). Chinese FDI is a significant source of investment in the Kingdom. They perceive their economic relationship with China as an act of balancing and the development of an important relationship during the of the “rise of the East.” As Mr. Madhiput it, “The rise of China is definitely happening in Saudi Arabia.”

The meetings today raised many questions for us. How does Saudi Arabia expect to reconcile the desire to be a global economic power but still resist social and cultural liberalization? Do they need to reconcile these two objectives that seem to be at odds to us as foreigners? At many of our meetings, Saudis mention continual gradual change and reform, but we wonder if there will be a breaking point between those who want Saudi to be a major global economic player and those who outright reject any Western influence or liberalization as a perceived threat to Islam and Saudi culture. We have seen many things that we as Americans appreciate – public libraries, the press, universities, and educated working women. And while we see many things that we perceive as ‘good,’ there are still fundamental cultural differences that we continue to grapple with.

We were sad to leave our beautiful abode in Riyadh, but are excited to see another area of Saudi. Our luggage piled to the ceiling in the back of our minibus was quite the sight to see as we made the journey from the airport in Dammam to our new hotel. Our guides from the Ministry of Higher Education are constantly working to assure that we are enjoying ourselves – and we truly are. We’re looking forward to the next several days in Dammam.

Day 3: Riyadh

Riyadh, Saudi Arabia: After our first full day here, the snapshots of the city that come to mind are the cloudless, cool March weather and the massive buildings that are scattered throughout the city. As Ariel mentioned in her post, large construction projects seem to be underway throughout much of the city, and the towering glass skyscrapers stand out in stark contrast (e.g. Kingdom Tower) against the more ubiquitous sand colored buildings that characterize the urban landscape of Riyadh. Among these buildings are the university campuses that housed most of our first day activities here, which were a series of visits to two universities. Public university takes on an entirely different meaning here – the schools, at the least the ones we visited, are sprawling complexes comprised of open-air spaces, verdant lawns, and intricately beautiful arabesque design; they are the architectural marvels that house Saudi higher education. The girls were off on a separate visit for the first half of the morning, so the guys started off at King Saud University, the first university established in the country in 1957 – which stands on about 5.5 square miles of property!

The visits were a whirlwind of meetings with meetings with various deans and professors at the university. The emphasis on education in this country is impressive – one of the professors that we met with mentioned that the country spends 26% of GDP on education alone. The university dean emphasized that one of their main goals is to become a top 100 ranked university on the Academic Ranking of World Universities within the next several years (KSU is currently ranked in the 201-300 group). Certainly, the various programs at KSU that were introduced to us also reflect the importance of KSU to the greater Saudi society. The National Center for Youth Studies is a center focused on researching the issues and challenges that the youth of the country face, which to my surprise, are youth drug usage and divorce among parents. We also spoke with the professors at the Prince Salman Entrepreneurship Institute, who are focused on training budding Saudi entrepreneurs, particularly important for driving innovation in a country where most graduates seem to pursue safer careers either in the private sector or with the government. Another highlight from today was meeting with a professor who teaches a Saudi foreign policy class in the political science department. Despite being somewhat pressed for time, we were able to hear his take on the big foreign policy issues facing Saudi Arabia – the possibility of a nuclear Iran, the developments of the Arab Spring, and instability in Yemen, as well as his take on Saudi soft power in the Middle East. We also met with a professor who shared the various other programs KSU has initiated or implemented – ranging from its work in nanotechnology, intellectual property, as well as Riyadh Techno Valley – a R&D park focused on attracting investment by major companies that will help spur innovation and knowledge transfer back to these companies.

Speaking with this professor revealed, at least in my opinion, one of the many purposes behind the enormous investments in education – creating a sustainable and diversified economic future for Saudi beyond oil wealth. While wealth clearly abounds here, the professor also noted the basic facts facing Saudi Arabia – the finite nature of the oil supply. Furthermore, sustaining the city (and country) is very costly. Desalinization of ocean water is extremely expensive, not to mention the costs associated with piping desalinated water into the city from the coast, which is almost 300 miles away. The city’s energy needs are also expensive, where scorching summers require heavy air conditioning usage throughout Riyadh. In other words, it seems that many of these programs at KSU are geared towards developing a long term future beyond oil wealth, and creating a “knowledge-based economy” that will be well-prepared to face the various challenges that Saudi Arabia currently faces, as well the challenges that remain in the future. While they don’t have all the answers yet on potential solutions, such as alternative energy sources, they are definitely learning, researching, and looking forward.

Our first full day in Saudi Arabia was packed with visits to other places that I wasn’t even able to start discussing (Al Riyadh newspaper and the newly constructed Princess Nora Abdul Rahman University; a huge, amazing campus with its own internal tram system, as well as a behemoth library that holds 5 million books – with automated retrieval!), not to mention a tiring one, but it has definitely been a great start to this trip. Many thanks to the numerous faculty/staff at KSU, Al Riyadh, and PNU for hosting and speaking with us! Also – we’re belated in expressing this on our blog, but many thanks also to Professor Seznec from Georgetown for briefing us on Saudi Arabia before we left, and also a shout out to Claire and Brian for being our cultural experts as well as trip “leaders.” You are (all) awesome! More pictures to come when faster internet connection permits…

Women's Higher Education in Saudi

One common theme during our visit to Saudi was the emphasis on creating educational opportunities for women so as to improve their chances of joining the workforce. To that fact, we had the pleasure of visiting two women's universities. Day 3 (in Riyadh) began with our group separating by gender in order to visit the male and female campuses of King Saud University. We then reunited to visit the Al-Riyadh newspaper offices, followed by a tour of what I can only describe as the medium-sized city that is Princess Nora bint Abdulrahman University for Women. Visiting these universities really drove home the point that we were not in Georgetown. Aside from separation of the sexes, the facilities were a sight to behold and envy, with amenities that are unheard of in American universities. Seriously.

King Saud University (Women's Campus)

So this is where all the women are! Upon entering the campus of King Saud University, we encountered hundreds of unveiled women, happily engaged with one another and with the space around them. They are busy little bees, all 22,000 of them, studying as undergraduates or becoming teaching assistants after they finish, in one of their eight colleges (Business Administration, Translation, College of the Arts, Education, and Law). During our round table meeting with the Dean of the School, some of the school directors, a handful of current TA's pursuing Master's programs, and one undergraduate, we found out that these women are strong, intelligent, and hungry for more. There is a strong emphasis in preparing Saudi women with practical skills so that they can join the workforce by including a "Preparatory Year" as part of their studies. Many of them do a stint abroad in the U.S. or Canada; this is highly encouraged, as it broadens the students' experiences, and it also helps King Saud in their pursuit for international prestige.

The university boasts an impressive center for students with special needs. There are all sorts of specially-adapted computers, printers, and other gadgets to aid students with any disabilities. I cannot attest to any such facilities that may exist at Georgetown or Columbia (my undergrad alma mater), but I don't recall ever seeing an entire building devoted exclusively to meeting the needs of students with disabilities at either. It's great to see inclusion of all, particularly considering that it's a relatively new concept in the country.

Princess Nora University

This is one of the most impressive institutions (at least in terms of space) that I have ever seen. To call this a university campus is to undermine the fact that it's closer to a medium-sized city, boasting its own metro system, sports facility, hospital, research centers, student and faculty housing, and... oh, yeah, classrooms for the fifteen colleges. The university was commissioned by King Abdullah in late 2008 and took about 3 years to build (7,000 workers per shift, with 3 shifts per day -- whoa). The campus is now functional, but of course, since it's only been open for a few months, students are only trickling in.

Student housing is quite a sight - all brand-new, one-bedroom apartments that include a 32" LCD TV. Oh, yeah, and did I mention that students pay all of ZERO when they enroll and move in? Yup, all tuition and housing is paid for by the Saudi government. Of course they have oil money to thank for it, and despite any criticisms we may have about the Kingdom, they have certainly stepped up their efforts in making education as available to all as possible. Looking at my student loan balances, it's tough to argue with their approach.

The sports complex took our collective breaths away, considering that it includes a climbing wall, indoor volleyball courts, a track, squash and racquetball courts, an olympic pool, and saunas, steam rooms and massage rooms inside of the locker room. By that point, you're just showing off, people!

So, with all of these gargantuan efforts to include women in their society, what do we expect? I'm optimistic for the country, surprisingly. Changes do not occur overnight in paternalistic societies, but they can happen. I'm reminded of my own father, who was against my playing soccer in high school because it was "too tough for women," only to see his beaming smile (and winces) when he attended my rugby games in college. Yes, women face huge hurdles after they finish their post-secondary education in Saudi, but there is hunger for more -- even if it's veiled under conservatism.

Day 2

 
 It is officially Day Two of our trip- we left early evening March 2 and got here in the afternoon on March 3. Our first taste of Saudi was actually some rather good food on the plane; many people ordered the lamb, which received rave reviews. Our second taste was when we entered Saudi airspace and the women on the plane began to change into their abayas and head scarves, which included the ladies in our party. After landing, we passed through immigration and met our guide, Saad, who is rather funny and very nice. On our way to the hotel, we noticed right away the massive amounts of construction that are taking place, almost like brand new cities are being built all at once. The rate of construction here is astounding, thanks to deep pockets of funding from government and business.

Thanks to the KSA, we are staying at the Ritz Carlton Riyadh, which is one of the luxurious hotels I have seen in my life. it's a little over-the-top, but one can appreciate the intricate details that were put into every room. Apparently, it has been open only three and a half months and already it has been ranked as the top hotel in the Middle East.  Our guide shared with us that it took 3000 people working each shift for 24 hours a day to complete construction in just two years. We went on a great tour of the hotel this evening and saw beautiful ornate wall decorations. Apparently they are made out of a special material from Morocco. A few pictures of ceiling decor are included here. Ken also made good use of the baby grand piano and led us in a brief sing-a-long in the room overlooking the pool.

When we left for this trip, we had all been aware that the sexes are treated differently in Saudi Arabia; the women were expecting not to be able to swim in the gorgeous pool or use the spa. What we weren't prepared for is how easily we are slipping into a subconscious division amongst ourselves; it could just be coincidence, but our last three meetings found us grouped in girls and guys, which hadn't been an issue at the Dulles. There are still some things we aren't sure about, like when its acceptable for women to sit with men (we made sure to wait to be seated at the restaurant) or being able to wander around by ourselves. This is a fairly international hotel, but according to the staff here, they too are still trying to figure out which norms to use in common spaces.

We had a lovely dinner at the hotel restaurant (only one is open so far). We were pleased with the international cuisine- there was so much to try -especially with some of the fun desserts that had what appeared to be gold dust on top and lots of pistachio-themed goodies and an extensive salad bar full of olives, various types of hummus, tons of fish salads and smoked fish, and of course, labneh. It's been a long day and we're all eager to hit the hay. We're excited to learn more about Saudi Arabia tomorrow and embark on male/female adventures to the universities.

Day 1

In just a few hours, fourteen Master of Science in Foreign Service (MSFS) students from Georgetown University will begin the 7,000 mile journey from Washington, D.C. to Riyadh, Saudi Arabia. Some of the students have spent years living in the Middle East or have traveled extensively throughout the region. For others—like me—this will be the first time. While we come to this trip with varying degrees of experience, the level of enthusiasm across the board is quite high.

We are grateful to the Saudi Ministry of Education for organizing and sponsoring this opportunity and to Eleanor Monte-Jones, Associate Director of MSFS, for acting as liaison with the Saudi embassy and preparing the paperwork associated with the trip.

During our stay, we will visit a range of government agencies, educational institutions, and historical sites. Each day, a representative from our delegation will share experiences and impressions here. We invite you to visit our blog frequently for continued updates about our trip.